What does a perfumer actually need an analytical balance for? "A perfume consists of 50 to 100 different raw ingredients," states Bigler. "When I create a new fragrance, I work with undiluted extracts. I have memorized the raw materials and know which materials produce what fragrant experience when mixed together." The experienced perfumer starts by writing a formula, the recipe for the perfume concentrate. She then weighs different extracts on the analytical balance and dilutes them with alcohol. Only at that moment does the fragrance begin to reveal itself.
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In her studio in Switzerland perfumer Bibi Bigler captures fragrant experiences in extravagant perfumes. To ensure that all notes in her compositions harmonize perfectly, she relies on her nose – and on an analytical balance from METTLER TOLEDO.
The fine sweet smell is the first thing one notices when visiting Bibi Bigler at her workplace. Tiny bottles and powder vials with natural essential oils, extracts, and synthetic fragrance components sit among measuring cups, pipettes and balances. It is here that the perfumer creates striking fragrances inspired by nature. In her first perfume, for example, she captured the smell of the fringed pink flower, Dianthus, a rare mountain flower that she discovered in the Engadin Alpine valley region. In another perfume, the fragrance of a Swiss pine forest is captured from the distillation of Engadin pine needles and resin.
Educated in the Perfume Stronghold
Originally trained as a biologist, Bigler learned her trade at the International Perfumery School of Givaudan in Grasse, France. It was there that she spent two years training her olfactory memory (recollection of odors) and practiced breaking down complex fragrances into their basic notes. "There are 3,500 fragrance components available on the market," remarks Bigler. "A good perfumer should be able to identify 2,000 of them, an amateur about 50." After completing her training, she worked twelve years in aroma creation for Givaudan in Dübendorf until she set up her own practice in Aathal in 2009. "While at Givaudan, I often worked with METTLER TOLEDO balances," explains Bigler. "At that time, I was able to acquire a used analytical balance, a PB153-S, through one of the service technicians. Although it is an older model, it still works flawlessly today."
Achieving Perfection with Precision
The perfumer can next check the result with her nose. "I adjust dosages, modify the formula, and mix the fragrance again, in order to smooth out the imperfections. Often, over 100 attempts are required before the perfect fragrance is achieved." This is not a cheap undertaking, especially as Bigler believes that it is essential to use high-quality ingredients: "For example, one kilogram of rose oil costs about 10,000 Swiss francs," she emphasizes. "That is why I always measure the smallest amounts − in the microgram range − for my trials."
Fragrance Workshops
In the evening, the studio is transformed into a perfume bar. Before long, up to twelve guests gather to attend a fragrance workshop. Bigler introduces her guests to the world of fragrances as individual aromas in flacons pass them by on a conveyor belt. She explains the composition of a perfume in terms of top, core and base notes, and describes the difference between synthetic and natural fragrance components. Later, guests create their own personal fragrance under the professional guidance of the perfumer herself. There is no need for an analytical balance here though, Bigler laughs: "The essences are already diluted with alcohol. The guests can rely completely on their noses."